Nearshore Reading Group

CCS Basement alternating Friday's at 10:45am: If interested contact falk@coast.ucsd.edu

Summer 2008 (informal)

Tuesday Aug 5th (Falk Feddersen)

The next phase of our reading group will be turbulence models. We'll learn what slang such as "Mellor-Yamada" , "k-epsilon", "k-omega", and generic length scale equation all mean. The first paper we'll be reading is:

Reynolds, Computation of Turbulent Flows Annual Review of Fluid Mech. 1976.
PLEASE read only up to SECTION 5.

This paper reviews the basics of zero, one, and 2 equation turbulence models, in unstratified flow conditions. The whole point is to know what eddy viscosity to use in equations for the mean flow. For further background see the Turbulence Chapter of Kundu, in particular the subsection "The Kinetic Energy Budget of Mean (& Turbulent) Flow".

Spring Quarter 2008 (informal)

Tuesday May 6th and Wed May 21(Falk Feddersen)

Lentz, Fewings, Howd, Fredericks, and Hathaway, Observations and a Model of Undertow over the Inner Continental Shelf, revised to JPO, 2008
Other Potentially Interesting Future Reading
- Fewings et al. JPO submitted 2008 - don't have the pdf yet
- Xu and Bowen, JPO 1994: Wave and wind-driven flow in water of finite depth What Lentz bases his equations on - based upon Hasselmann 1970. Who wants to volunteer?
- Hasselman, 1970: Wave driven inertial oscillations
  -> this paper is long (41 pages) but has the fundamentals of the equations in the Lentz paper. who wants to volunteer?

Spring Quarter 2006 (1 credit 219 special topics class)

Friday June 2nd 2006 (Steve Henderson)

Foster, D., A.J. Bowen, R.A. Holman, P. Natoo, Field evidence of pressure gradient induced incipient motion J. Geophys. Res., 111, doi:10.1029/2004JC002863, 2006.

Friday May 19th 2006 (Melissa Omand)

Boehm, A., D.P. Keymera, G.G. Shellenbargerb, An analytical model of enterococci inactivation, grazing, and transport in the surf zone of a marine beach Water Research, 39, 3565-3578, 2005.

Friday May 5th 2006 (Nicolas Le Dantec)

Traykovski P, Hay AE, Irish JD, and J. Lynch. Geometry, migration, and evolution of wave orbital ripples at LEO-15 J. Geophysical Research - Oceans, 104, 1505-1524 JAN 15 1999.

Friday April 21st 2006 (Dave Clark)

Noyes, Guza, Elgar, Herbers, Field observations of shear waves in the surfzone, J. Geophys. Res., 109 doi:10.1029/2002JC001761, 2004.

Friday April 7th 2006 (Melissa Omand)

Defeo and McLachlan, Patterns in sandy beach macrofauna, Marine Ecology Progress Series, 295, 1-20. 2005.

(NOTE: we will be discussing only the INTRO, BEACH ENVIRONMENT (p2-3), and MESOSCALE PATTERNS (p9-13) sections of this paper)

Winter Quarter 2006 (1 credit 219 special topics class)

Friday March 17th 2006 (Leah Hogarth)

Coco, G., T.K. Burnet, B.T. Werner, S. Elgar, Test of self-organization in beach cusp formation, J. Geophys. Res., 108, doi:10.1029/2002JC001496, 2003.

Friday March 3rd 2006 (Feddersen)

Thornton E.B., and R. T. Guza, Transformation of Wave Height Distributions, J. Geophys. Res., 88, 5925--5938, 1983.

Friday Feb 17th 2006

Ocean Sciences Practice Posters and Talks

Friday Feb 3rd 2006 (Dave Clark)

Longuet-Higgins, M.S., Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves 1., JGR, Vol 75, 33, 6778-6789, 1970

Friday Jan 20th 2006 (Yates)

Bowen, Inman, and Simmons, Wave Set-Down and Set-Up, JGR, Vol 73, N8, 2569-2577, 1968.

Fall Quarter 2005

This group is now a 1 credit 219 special topics class.

Friday Dec 2nd 2005 (Henderson)

Allen, Newberger, and Holman Nonlinear shear instabilities of alongshore currents on plane beaches, J. Fluid Mech., Vol. 310, 181--213, 1996.

Friday Nov 18th 2005 (Yates)

Plant, N.G., B.G. Ruessink, K.M. Wijnberg, Morphologic properties derived from a simple cross-shore sediment transport model, J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 106 (C1), 945-958, 2001.

Friday Nov 11th 2005 (Clark)

Fong, D. A., and M. T. Stacey, Horizontal dispersion of a near-bed coastal plume. J. Fluid Mech., 489, 239--267, 2003.

Friday Oct 28th 2005 (Spydell)

Richardson, L.F., Atmospheric Diffusion shown on a Distance Neighbor Graph, Proc. Roy. Soc. London A Vol 110, N756, 709-737, 1926.
Other relevant and interesting (and short) reading is: (check out Figs 2 & 3)
Jullien et al., Richardson Pair Dispersion in Two-Dimensional Turbulence, Physical Review Letters, V82, N14, 2872-2875, 1999.

Friday Oct 14th 2005 (Ponte)

Okubo, A. Oceanic Diffusion Diagrams, Deep Sea Research, Vol 18, 789-802, 1971.

Friday September 30th 2005 (Feddersen)

Longuet-Higgins M.S. and R.W. Stewart, Radiation stress in water waves: A physical discussion with application, Deep Sea Research, Vol 11, 529-563, 1964.

Summer 2005

Friday September 16th 2005 (Guza)

We'll be continuing the paper from two weeks ago

Battjes, J.A., H. Bakkenes, T.T. Jansen, A. R. Van Dongeren, Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves, J. Geophys. Res., 109, doi:10.1029/2003jc001863, 2004.

Friday September 2 2005 (Guza)

Battjes, J.A., H. Bakkenes, T.T. Jansen, A. R. Van Dongeren, Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves, J. Geophys. Res., 109, doi:10.1029/2003jc001863, 2004.

Friday August 19 2005 (Yates)

Oltman-Shay, J. and R.T. Guza, Infragravity Edge Wave Observations on Two California Beaches, J. Phys. Oceangr., 17, 644-663, 1987.

Thursday July 21 2005 (Clark)

Clarke, L., D. Ackerman, J. Largier, Dye dispersion in the Surf Zone: Measurements and Simple models, submitted to JGR, 2005

Friday July 1 2005 (Clark)

Plumb, R.A. Eddy Fluxes of Conserved Quantities by Small Amplitude Waves, J. Atmospheric Sci. , 36, 1699-1704, 1979.

Friday June 17th 2005 (Spydell)

Dever, E. P., M. C. Hendershott, and C. D. Winant, Statistical aspects of surface drifter observations of circulation in the Santa Barbara Channel, J. Geophys. Res., 103, 24,781-24,797, 1998.

Spring 2005

Friday May 27th 2005 (Feddersen)

Davis, R. E., Drifter Observations of Coastal Surface Currents during CODE: The Statistical and Dynamical Views, J. Geophys. Res., 90, 4756-4772, 1985.

Friday May 6th 2005 (Henderson)

Long, J. and H. T. Ozkan-Haller, Offshore controls on nearshore rip currents, submitted to JGR 2005.

Friday April 22th 2005 (Feddersen)

Stanley Grant, Joon Ha Kim, Burton H. Jones, Scott A. Jenkins, and Joseph Wasyl, C. Cudabek, Surf zone entrainment, along-shore transport, and human health implications of pollution from tidal outlets, JGR, 2005.

Friday April 8th 2005 (Yates)

Haas K.A., and D.M. Hanes, Process based modeling of total longshore sediment transport, J. Coastal Research, 20, 853--861, 2004.

Winter 2005

Friday March 11 2005 (Henderson)

Henderson SM, Allen JS, Newberger PA Nearshore sandbar migration predicted by an eddy-diffusive boundary layer model J. Geophysical Research, 109 Art. No. C06024, JUN 23 2004.

Friday Feb 25 2005 (Guza)

Gallagher EL, Elgar S, Guza RT, Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach J. Geophysical Research, 103, 3203-3215 FEB 15 1998.
* See Guza for an actual reprint - this PDF is scanned and isn't so nice to read
Hoefel F, Elgar S, Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration Science, 299, 1885-1887, MAR 21 2003.
Bagnold Technical Report - see Steve Henderson

Friday Feb 11 2005 (Spydell)

Peregrine, D.H. Long waves on a beach J. Fluid Mech. 27 815-827. 1967.

Friday Jan 28 2005 (Feddersen)

Chen, Q., J.T. Kirby, R.A. Dalrymple, F. Shi, and E. B.Thornton, 2003: Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents. J. Geophys. Res. 108, DOI: 10.1029/2002JC001308.